We took the first bus into the center of town, called our new Couchsurfing host, Ilona, and waited for her arrival. She rushed over to meet us, from a far four blocks, and then we all walked back to her atico inside the old city. The first night was very restful...we hung out chatting for a few hours with Ilona and her boyfriend Eric. Ilona is originally from Malta, but is a well seasoned international traveler by way of Super yachts. Eric is from Iowa (he always says Omaha) and is in Malta as a teacher, with a government visa and a stipend. (Dream job!)
That evening I made a sort of Spaghetti Bolognese, but don't quote me because I don't have the specifics. Eric, Princess and I shared it with some Nero d'Avola from Sicily, and then went out to meet Ilona at her bar across town. We met her boss, Germano, a kite surfing instructor from Italy, and hung out drinking Irish Coffee and more vino.
The next morning, Ilona, Princess and I walked out and around the Old City, stopping for tazas de chocolate and ensaimadas. Princess found a whole new world with cups of real melted chocolate...soon I will show her Cola Cao. We walked by the shops on Carrer Sant Miguel, through the Plaza Major, down to Passeig des Born, past a huge gnarled olive tree, and out to the sea and the great catedral. Ilona left us at 1230 to go to a meeting, and Princess and I caught the old train to Soller.
Soller is an hour's ride to the north, up near the goat's horns. (Mallorca is shaped like a goat's head) It is a beautiful small town, full of small town shops and schools and museums. We took a tram down to Port de Soller, right on the coast. There is a harbor there with lots of boats and almost no waves (OK, they were two inches tall). We walked around for a bit, and grabbed lunch at El Pirata (the pirate). Princess enjoyed beef carpaccio with avocado and rocket lettuce, I had lamb chops with ratatouille and chips and we shared a bottle of vino tinto. The setting was precioso, the afternoon gorgeous and the island magical. Princess even got her toes wet for the first time in the Mediterranean. We returned to Palma late in the afternoon, napping along the way.
In the evening, after quick showers (don't forget to shower when traveling!), Eric, Ilona, Princess and I headed out for tapas. We had pintxos at Bar L'Ambigu (open-face sandwiches with various toppings) and tapas at Bar Dia, each time sipping canyas of beer. We went to a Couchsurfing meeting at Ilona's bar, but exited early with the cloud of cigarette smoke looming thick. Our scenic walk home was wonderful, though it took 20 minutes longer than we expected (I guess that's what made it scenic).
In the morning, Princess and I headed down to the sea and walked along the port, taking in a beautifully warm day. We checked out the fish in the moat/pond and grabbed OJ, cafe con leche and a croissant for breakfast, and then walked back up to the Plaza Major. Princess had had her eye on a pair of earrings since the day before, so we went to pick them up. Upon seeing them again, along with many new ones, she eschewed her previous request and took home a different set. Look for them in the next city!
We're off to Ibiza today; for the first wedding that this entire trip is based upon...someone's gonna get cute!
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